The following is extracted from H.M.S.
“Dauntless” 1930-1932.
Commissioning
On the 25th March 1930, H.M.S. “Dauntless”
commissioned at Portsmouth, with a “Pompey” crew, for service on the
America and West Indies Station with the 8th Cruiser Squadron,
based at Bermuda. She was to
take the place of H.M.S. “Cardoc” which had recently arrived home and
had paid off at Portsmouth. Captain
H. R. Moore, D.S.O., of H.M.S. “Caradoc,” was appointed to command
H.M.S. “Dauntless.”
On the forenoon of the 8th April, the
Commander-in-Chief, Portsmouth, Admiral Sir Roger Keyes, walked round the
ship and wished the officers and ship’s company a pleasant voyage and a
happy commission. At 1115 on
the same day the ship slipped from the North West Tidal Basin, bound for
Bermuda. The jetty was crowded with friends, relatives and other dear
ones who had come to catch a glimpse of us.
Fond farewells were exchanged and also promise to remain true.
Amidst cheers and hand waving the ship proceeded out of harbour to
carry out D/F. calibration off Spithead before shaping course for Bermuda
at 1730. Dreams were dreamed
that night.
From 8th-13th April we experienced sunshine
and a moderately calm sea. On
the 13th the ship passed the Azores, but the islands were too
far away to be sighted. It
was also reported that a shark had been seen.
The 14th April brought cloudy weather; rainsqualls and a
heavy Atlantic swell which continued for four days.
The ship pitched and rolled uncomfortably.
It was noticed that some of the Boy’s Division had lost their
girlish complexions and that a few even looked unhappy.
Perhaps they had eaten something, which had disagreed with them.
Throughout this period the hands were busily engaged cleaning ship.
On the 19th April, at 1030, and in glorious sunshine,
H.M.S. “Dauntless” arrived at Bermuda and secured alongside Clock
Tower Jetty. H.M.S. “Despatch,”
flying the flag of the Commander-in-Chief of the Station, Admiral Sir
Cyril Fuller, and H.M.S. “Heliotrope” were in harbour.
At last we had arrived at Bermuda and on our own station. Bermuda, Ye Isles of Rest, what have ye in store for us
besides sunshine, lilies, hibiscus and bicycle rides?
Having arrived at the Isles of Rest it was appropriate that the
ship should proceed to sea on the 21st and 22nd
April to carry out gunnery and torpedo exercises.
Throughout the practices we experienced rainsqualls and
intermittent sunshine.
During the period 23rd-30th April, trial
football and cricket matches held on Moresby Plain.
Talent was forthcoming and great credit is due to the selection
committees for building up the best elevens possible under the none too
propitious circumstances.
According to the original programme the ship was supposed to sail
for Bluefields, Nicaragua, on the 26th April.
From the date of arrival at Bermuda chipping, painting and cleaning
had proceeded furiously. I n
spite of all our efforts it was soon obvious that the ship would not be
ready to commence the first cruise on the 26th April.
The date of departure was postponed for five days.
At 1530 on Thursday 1st May, we sailed from Bermuda for
Colon, on a Pacific cruise. Rumour
has it that this cruise is easily the best on the station.
Mention must be made of an amusing incident which occurred just
before the ship commissioned at Portsmouth.
Owing to an electric blow out in one of the passages it was
necessary to give the fire alarm to all ships and establishments.
However, the care and maintenance party, with the assistance of
dockyard men, managed to get the fire under control before outside
assistance arrived. But what
we want to know is-Who was the zealous rating who plunged boldly into the
smoke with a fire bucket in one hand and a lighted candle in the other to
find his way to the fire?
The Bermudas were discovered in 1515 by Juan Bermudez, a Spaniard
(from whom they took their name), when on a voyage from Spain to Cuba with
a cargo of hogs. Owing to a
gale arising the Spaniards soon departed, leaving their hogs behind.
Some years later, Fernando Camelo, a Portuguese and a native of the
Azores, submitted a scheme for colonising the island to the King of Spain.
This scheme was never carried out, although an inscription on the
main island containing the figures 1543 has been taken as evidence that
Camelo took possession of it at that date.
Many ships of many nations must have passed by these islands, but
rock bound, storm racked, beaten and desolate; the Spaniards called them
“The Isles of Devils.” The
Spaniards steered north towards them in order to take advantage of the
Gulf Stream and avoid the Easterly Tardes; but they were warned to keep
clear of the storms and reefs.
In 1591 three trading ships were sent from London to
the East, under the command of James Lancaster.
On their return, journey they went to the West Indies, arriving
1593. Three Lancaster and
Henry May, one of his followers, in a French ship bound for Europe, which
companions, remained on the islands for nearly four months, existing on
the wild hogs which they found “so lean that they cannot eat them,”
native fruits and vegetables. They
finally built a vessel, using Bermuda cedar, and set sail for Newfoundland
and thence to England, where May published an account of the islands.
One discoverer, after another, including Sir Walter Raleigh
1595, and Champlain, about 1600, continued to bear ill witness against the
Bermudas. With the first colonisation of America begins the
colonisation of Bermuda.
The Virginia Company received its pantent from James I in 1606, and
in 1607 its first colonists were despatched to America.
In 1609 the Company was reorganised and nine ships were sent out
under Sir George Somers and others. Somers
was the leading spirit. He
was a West countryman, borne at or near Lyme Regis, and had been trained
in the wars with Spain. A
violent storm scattered the vessels, and when one of them, the “Sea
Adventure,” had given hope they sighted the Bermudas where they were
wrecked, the ship being wedged between two rocks, and all the company
reached land safely. There
they stayed for ten months, finding the islands better than their repute
and, finally, having built two ships, they act set sail for Virginia to
find the colony nearly starved out. The
arrival of fresh ships from England prevented the abandonment of the
colony, and Somers undertook to fetch food from the Bermudas. He reached the islands safely, but died afterwards.
His body was embalmed and taken to England and laid to rest at
Whitechurch, but his heart is said to have been buried in Bermuda soil,
where the town of St. George now stands, and his memory is perpetuated by
that name, with those of Somers Islands and Somerset (Somer’s seat).
Though, during the long struggle between King and Parliament, the
authorities had little leisure to interfere with Bermuda, yet the
political and religious discord reached them. From the first the Puritan
Ministers and their followers seem to have caused constant trouble.
In 1620 the Independents formally seceded from the Church and two
years later an act of the Long Parliament established freedom of worship
in the islands. Later the
feeling of the community turned to the Quackers, and eventually the
Company made an order, prohibiting their landing in the islands.
At the time of the execution of Charles I, and the establishment of
the Commonwealth, Royalists seem to have retreated to the islands, and in
1650 the Long Parliament passed an act prohibiting trade with the islands
on account of their refusal to recognize the Commonwealth.
Two years later, 1652, the Governor and Coucil of the Bermudas took
the oath of allegiance “to the Commonwealth of England as it is now
established without a King or House of Lords.”
The Restoration of Charles II, in 1660, seems to have been welcomed
in the colony.
In time, so galling were the oppressive restrictions imposed on
trade in the islands and the severity of the discipline enforced by the
Company, that many complaints were sent to England.
Further, the Company became composed of men who had no direct
personal interests in the Bermudas, while the colonists grew in number,
strength and independence. A
petition, sated 1679, subsequently led to legal proceedings being taken
against the Company-their Charter was abolished and the Bermudas passed to
the Crown.
Since then the history has been uneventful.
During the 18th and early 19th centuries
agriculture and handicrafts were neglected and left to slaves, while the
settlers built ships from cedar and busied themselves with trade to the
West Indies and North America, with wrecking and, in time of war, with
privateering.
The Bermudian
seaman was constantly hampered in their efforts.
Abroad, they were always liable to be captured by one or other of
Great Britain’s enemies. At
home they were handicapped by the regulation of 1710, stating that all
incoming cargoes were to be unloaded at St. George’s.
In the early days of the colony whale fishing was expected to
produce a source of income, but it eventually fell through.
During the many wars of the 18th century Bermuda was
only indirectly affected, since the smallness and poverty of the islands
and their distance from the mainland proved their safety.
A close connection always existed between Bermuda and the North
American colonies, and since North America was the chief market for the
island trade their loyalty was only half hearted during the American War
of Independence. In 1775 a
store of gunpowder fourd its way from the islands into American hands by
the connivance of the inhabitants, and in return certain supplies were
sent from America to them, in spite of the fact that privateers, using
Bermuda as a base, were doing damage to American shipping.
The gunpowder was used to drive the English from Boston in March
1775.
The return of Somers companions drew English public attention to
Bermuda. The dark picture
drawn by earlier discoverers were disproved and popular tales now painted
it in glowing colours.
In 1612 the Virginian Company procured an extension of their
charter so as to cover all islands within 300 leagues of the Virginian
shore in order to include the Bermudas.
A few months later the Company sold the islands to certain members
of their own body, who in 1615 were incorporated under Royal Patent as
“The Governor and Company of the City of London for the plantation of
Somers Islands.” This
company owned the islands until 1684. The letters patent gave them full powers of Government with
an absolute monopoly of the import and export trade of the islands.
The first emigrants to the Bermudas, about 50 in number, were not
sent out in 1612, before the new Company had been formed.
Richard Moore, a ship’s carpenter, was the first Governor and the
instructions given to him stated various sources of wealth which might be
derived from the colony, including tobacco, pearls, silk, timber, salt,
sugar-cane, ambergris and whale oil.
Three men who had remained behind from Somers Company, whose main
concern was to hide from the Governor a quantity of ambergris they had
discovered, received the newcomers. Moore
landed at Smith’s Island, but subsequently removed to St. George’s,
where he established his headquarters.
One of the first settlers was Richard Norwood a surveyor, who
carried out the first division of the islands according to the terms laid
down in the letters patent. These
were that about a quarter was to be common land to defray to defray
charges on the Company and the rest was to be divided into nine tribes,
each tribe containing 50 shares of 250 acres each.
The tribes were renamed after some of the leading members of the
company, while St. George’s with the small island round it, and part of
the mainland, was set apart for the common land.
These nine districts constitute the nine parishes into which the
Bermudas are divided to this day for ecclesiastical and political
purposes.
The Bermudas were the second British colony to receive some form of
representative government. The
first Assembly was in 1620, one year after a similar institution in
Virginia, and the constitution was revised and fully detailed in 1622.
The Bermudas remained under the company during the reign of James I
and Charles I, the Commonwealth and Charles II, and the population began
to grow until in 1679 it had reached 8,000, including women, children and
slaves. It included English
planters, tenants of absentee proprietors, Negro slaves (first mentioned
about 1617). Indian slaves
(shipped off from Massachusetts by a law in 1650) and white bondservants,
in great measure Scotch and Irish political prisoners.
As time went on there was a call for a capital other than St.
George’s, one in a more central position.
Consequently Hamilton was laid out and in 1815 became the seat of
Government. In 1794 Admiral
Murray, who gave his name to Murray’s anchorage, off the North East of
St. George’s Island, recommended the construction of a dockyard.
Ireland Island was selected and work began in January 1810. To carry it out convicts were sent from England’ and from
1824 to 1863 some 9,000 English criminals were sent to and employed in the
islands, the number at one time being over 1,500 after the emancipation of
the slaves. The Bermudas,
however, were never a convict settlement in the same way as Australia,
since convicts were sent here for a definite purpose, to work for the
Imperial government. Eventually
those who survived the epidemic of yellow fever, which broke out, were
re-shipped to England on the expiration of their sentence.
For the last 50 years little or nothing of general interest is
continued in the history of the islands.
Bermuda is the colony that he owed the longest uninterrupted
allegiance to the British Crown.
Modern Bermuda
To supplement the history of the Bermudas we decided it was
necessary to write an account of Modern Bermuda, chiefly to convey some
idea of what one may expect to find when based here.
All or efforts have paled before the following description by a
royal Marine. We are deeply
indebted to the Editor of The Globe and Laurel for permission to reproduce
this article.
(1)
Bermuda-as a Bermudian sees it.
There she lies-Bermuda-land of sunshine and rejuvenating air, of
blossoms, soft colourings and picturesque glimpses.
Let all be assured that these Enchanted Islands will yield full
expectations. The Giver of
all good has been generous with His gifts to these Islands of the
Blest-the nearest approach to Paradise yet known.
Song an d story tell us Scotland’s rugged grandeur, of the
wondrous beauty of England’s Lakeland, of Swiss scenery sublime, yet the
unique and scenic delights of Bermuda surpass them all.
Members of the corps who has served here and who may read this will
undoubtedly murmur, but of this beautiful Isle of the Western Sea too
little is known. Her climate
conditions evoke admiring comment, and above all her pervading “rest”
earns her legions of admirers. The
old-world “quiet” is maintained by the prohibition of motor vehicles,
although this is likely to be distributed by a railway, which is in course
of erection. At present
bicycles and horse transport are the only means of conveyance.
Since the introduction of prohibition in the United Sates, Bermuda
knows no limit to its prosperity; a fleet of luxurious liners between New
York and these Islands.
The hotels are wonderful, but it must be understood that the
tourists visit this Heaven kissed Isle to enjoy its restful beauty. According to cartoons, American mothers with daughters to wed
flock here when the British Fleet has returned from cruising.
Hamilton, the capital of the Islands, offers a rendezvous which is
typically British-American, probably more American than British.
It is situated in the centre of the islands and presents a most
novel and attractive panorama. With its buildings of white coral limestone set in the green
hills, and a blue-sky overhead, the setting is most effective.
To do justice to the subject demands journalistic ability,
therefore I’ll leave impression number one with the invitation to al to
“Come and see the works of God.”
(2)
Bermuda-as the Navy see it
Situated
miles from everywhere lie the Island of Bermuda.
Surely the Maker used his apprentice hand on the making of them.
Marooned at one end of the group are the ship’s companies of five
cruisers and two sloops, at the other extremity are the Northumberland
Fusiliers. Ireland Island,
upon which is built the dockyard, offers opportunities galore for fond
thoughts of other stations. Surely
Malta, with all the cruel things said about it is worthy of being rates as
“neaters” compared to “this three water.”
Those
who have served on this Station and suffered a long spell alongside the
wall will be quite ready to sympathise with us.
Make your own sport is a necessity, but even then one gets tired of
amusing one’s self. Of
course we have a canteen run by the N.A.A.F.I, which is a popular as all
other Institutes directed by this firm.
Moresby Plain offers us two football grounds, which require no
alteration to become a drill field. In
the old said loft we have pictures or rather talkies while for Sundays we
have church.
One
occasion the Navy was welcomed to Hamilton, all available hands being
required as fire fighters.
At
the homeports the Dockyard Matie is our most severe critic, here he is our
most ardent friend. Those
with daughters are usually the most successful.
Still, thank Heaven for small mercies even although one must have
some “dog” in the pocket when going “up home.”
Colon
And The Panama Canal
The
passage from Bermuda to Colon was uneventful.
On the whole the sea was calm, but there was occasional
rainsqualls. The days became
perceptibly warmer, and on the 4th May, for the first time
during the commission, sun helmets were worn.
We arrived at Colon, the Atlantic entrance to the Panama Canal, at
1030 on the 7th May, and berthed alongside the shipping wharf
at Christobal Docks.
Christobal,
in the Canal Zone, is the twin city of Colon, which is the capital of its
province. Colon was
originally named Aspinwall, after one of the founders of the Panama
Railroad, but the present name commemorates Columbus.
The town was formerly a hotbed of yellow fever; medical science has
since converted it into a healthy, flourishing port.
A certain proportion of its wealth is undoubtedly due to the fact
that colon is outside the Canal Zone, and so the liquor restrictions
imposed by the Volstead Act do not apply.
The numerous and various types of cabarets provide nightlife
entertainment, both to the sophisticated and unsophisticated.
Bill Gray’s and the Atlantic cabarets collected most of our money
and the shows put up were really A.1; by the way, for most of us, out
first taste of cabarets.
The
majority of the inhabitants are American employees of the Canal.
The officers received a hearty welcome at the Strangers Club.
During our three days stay both officers and men were guests of the
United Sates Navy at the Coco Solo Submarine and Air Force Base.
Our hosts extended to us every opportunity for water polo and other
sports. The period at Colon
was a very pleasant break after seven at sea; nevertheless everyone was
anxious to proceed on the voyage to La Libertad, via the Panama Canal.
At 0600 on the 10th May we picked up our pilot and at
0630 entered the Gatun Lock.
The
axis of the isthmus in the Canal Zone runs southwest to northeast, and as
the Canal is cut approximately northwest to southeast the Pacific outlet
is accordingly east of the Atlantic end by nearly 27 miles.
Many a bet has been won over this fact.
The
Canal follows the valley of the Chagres River on the Atlantic side and
that of the Rio Grande on the Pacific slope.
The Gaillard or Culebra Cut spans the distance between.
From deep water to deep water the distance is 44 nautical miles.
The depth varies from Lake. The
mean level of the Pacific is some eight inches higher than the Atlantic.
Constant dredging is necessary in the nine miles Gaillard Cut.
The ascent to the Gatun Lake, 85 feet above sea level, is made by a
series of three steps at Gatun Lock.
The descent to the Pacific level is made by means of the Pedro
Miguel Lock, Miraflores Lake and Miraflores Locks.
Each lock chamber has 1,000 feet of length, 110 feet width and some
70 feet depth. The lock machinery is electrically operated.
Power is deprived from the hydroelectric station, worked by the
spillway from Gatun Lake.
Ferdinand
de Lesseps arrived at Panama in 1881 to develop the already conceived idea
of a canal to unite the Atlantic with the Pacific.
A company was formed which crashed in 1891, after 19 miles had been
constructed. The chiefs of the French Canal Company, convinced of their
inability to complete the work, commenced negotiations with the unites
States and Colombian Governments. Eventually,
by a treaty, Colombia authorised the sale of all rights and properties to
the American Government.
This
treaty was strongly opposed and its ultimate rejection led to Panama
proclaiming her independence in 1903 and signing the Canal Treaty in
November of the same year. For
construction rights the United States paid ten million dollars to Panama;
the French company receiving forty million for its rights and properties.
The total cost of completion was $375,000,000.
On August 15th 1914, the Canal was opened to commercial
traffic.
Yellow
fever and malaria, which had been responsible for the French failure, were
stamped out and considerably diminished respectively.
The work of the late Colonel Gorgas in this connection is
commemorated by the erection of an Institute for the study of tropical
diseases.
The
following is an account, by one of the ship’s company, of our voyage
through the Panama Canal: -
After
three days of oppressive heat at Colon the eagerly awaited day of passage
through the Canal arrived. The
dawn of May 10th 1930, espied all the amateur photographers of
the ship ready with newly charged cameras, and all the ship’s company
anxious to see the wonders of this marvellous waterway.
Dame Fortune was indeed kind in granting us this passage so early
in the commission. Many of
the ship’s company had not travelled before in this part of the world.
On the
morning of the 10th May, H.M.S. “Dauntless” was the first
ship to enter the Canal. At 0600 she proceeded from Colon, along the buoyed channel,
and entered Gatun Lock at 0630. From
Colon to the locks the distance is approximately six and a half miles and
the channel 1,000 feet wide. While
still some way from Gatun the first thrill was provided.
A crocodile was observed on the starboard hand, about 200 yards
from the ship. The length of
the breast was difficult to estimate while it swam, but it was a large
one’ at least 20 feet long. (The
Editor suggests this is a fishing story).
Soon the following notice was displayed in the ship: -“Men are
warned against leaning on the guard rails as the Panama Canal is infested
with crocodiles.”
Attention
was quickly diverted from the large crocodile to the bright green of a
banana plantation, which stood out against the darker green of other
tropical vegetation.
As
the ship approached Gatun Locks an arrow indicated to the pilot whom set
of locks was going to be used.
In
a series of three lifts the ship was to be taken to the level of Gatun
Lake. As we entered the
lowest lock hawsers were connected to electric locomotives, known as
“mules”; the ship ceased to move under her own power and the mules
conducted all the manoeuvring into position.
Three of these locomotives were stationed on each side of the
vessel; one on each bow, one on each side amidships and one on each
quarter. The hawsers were
connected to a small type of capstan situated on top of the square shaped
body of the mule and, by the operation of levers in the control cabinet,
it was possible to heave in or veer speedily as required to bring the ship
into position. The mules on the quarters stop the vessel when the lock gates
can be closed. In case of
accidents, chains, weighing 12 tons, are placed across each end of each
lock and, paying out with a certain amount of resistance, they will arrest
the progress of a ship before it reaches the lock gates.
Only 15 minutes were necessary to raise the ship to the level of
the second lock. The
procedure was twice repeated before we entered Gatun Lake under our power.
Gatun
Lake, formed by a dam across the Charges River, is said to be the largest
artificial lake in existence, covering an area of 164 square miles; while
Gatun Dam, seen on the right, immediately after leaving the locks, is
8,400 feet long and has a base width of half a mile.
A
buoyed channel across Gatun Lake was followed.
On either side could be seen just the tops of trees which once
flourished on dry land admist dense green vegetation.
Again we saw crocodiles basking in the sun and in the distance the
peaks of a mountain range. Suddenly the lake narrowed into what we was known as Camboa
Reach, which became narrower still and led into the Culebra Cut, where we
received the “all clear” from a signal station. Being quite close to the banks we were able to observe much
bird life, while can iguana basked on a small rock, blissfully ignorant of
the attention he claimed and the battery of cameras he faced.
The ships passed between Gold Hill and Contractor’s Hill, which
were very impressive, and all hands rushed to see the memorial tablet
erected to the men who lost their lives through disease while the
operations were being directed by French engineers.
The
Culebra Cut is easily the most interesting part of the cabal.
Ships meeting here have to be careful, as there is only just room
for two boats to pass.
The
Pedro Miguel lock lowered us 31 feet to the level of miraflores Lake.
Mules once again were used. Miraflores
is another artificial lake about a mile in length, and receives its water
from the Rio Grande and smaller streams.
Amongst other interesting scenery a cocoanut grove was prominent. Eventually the Miraflores Locks lowered us to the Pacific
level. Ancon Hill, at the
foot of which lies the town of Balboa, the Pacific Outlet, was now in
view. Several American
warships were observed in port, one flying the flag of a Rear admiral; a
salute of 13 guns was fired; U.S.S. “Galveston” replying.
At
about 1300, in a thunderstorm, the ship entered the Pacific Ocean.
It had taken us approximately seven hours to traverse the Panama
Canal, one of the worlds greatest travel thrills.
Panama
Canal To La Libertad, San Salvador
Sunday
11th May saw us on passage from Balboa to La Libertad; in
marvellous sunshine, calm weather and within sight of land all day.
An impromptu concert was held in the evening to discover what
talent was possessed. There
was certainly no lack of good comedians, musicians and “straight
singers.”
On
Monday the 12th land, Nicaragua, was still in sight.
A small shark and several turtles were seen.
The latter attracted a good deal of attention and interest as they
floated past in pairs and in schools.
The Royal Marine detachment seemed particularly curious.
Towards evening more and more turtles were seen.
Someone was heard to whisper “You lucky turtle,” but no one
could fathom what elicited the remark.
Tropical rig was the rig of the day.
At
0830 on Tuesday, 13th May H.M.S. “Dauntless” arrived at La
Libertad and anchored off the Pier. A
salute of twenty-one guns were fired and returned.
Then the situation was appreciated.
The open harbour and anchorage would be liable to constant, heavy
swells fro the Pacific; the town of La Libertad looked uncivilized and
uninteresting and the days were swelteringly hot.
With one accord reckoned with our British and Salvadorean hosts who
had made arrangements for both officers and men to visit San Salvador, the
capital of the Republic and the chief commercial centre, situated 2,000
feet above sea level and 25 miles from La Libertad.
The men went up in two batches of 50; each batch spending a day and
a night at San Salvador.
On
Wednesday morning, 14th May, Captain Moore and four officers
paid an official call on the President of the Republic of El Salavador.
They were afterwards entertained at a luncheon party.
Six
officers at a time were the guests of British residents at the capital.
On The 15th May Captain Moore and all available officers held an
official ball at the Country Club, which was attended.
Gold and tennis matches were staged, and during the heat of the
afternoon a dip in a private swimming bath, which was kindly put at out
disposal, was very welcome.
El
Salvador, the smallest but most densely populated of the Central American
Republics, owes its prosperity to the comparative freedom from political
disturbances. Perdro de
Alvarado conquered Salvador, originally called Cuscatlan, after a long and
obstinate contest in 1526. In
1821 it threw off the Spanish yoke and from 1823 to 1839 it belonged to
the Central American Confederacy. Since
1853 it has been an independent republic.
The bulk of the population is composed of Indians, of the Aztec
race, and mixed races. Except
for a rich narrow seaboard of alluvial plains Salvador consists of level
plateau, some 2,000 feet above the sea, furrowed by river valleys and
broken by numerous volcanic cones. Many
volcanoes are extinct, some erupt intermittently, but Izalco has been in
constant eruption for more than a century.
Earthquakes are a frequent occurrence.
Visit
Of H.M.S. “Dauntless” To San Salvador
Arrangements
For Entertaining The Sailors
Transport-
On the morning of the 14th May (Wednesday), motorbuses will be
at La Libertad to convey fifty sailors to San Salvador.
The visitors will be accommodated at the Pension Salvador, 6a
Avenida Norte, and No. 23.
Meals-
Lunch will be served at 1 p.m., Dinner at 7 p.m. and Breakfast on Thursday
morning at 6.45 a.m.
Refreshments.
Beer and minerals will be provided free at all beer parlours in
exchange for counters or voucher, which will be distributed at lunch, or
immediately on arrival.
A
barrel of beer will be on tap at the football match and oranges will be
supplied to the team.
Football
Match- There will be a football match played at the “Campo de Marte,”
between the team of the “Dauntless” and a picked Salvador team, for a
silver cup, time 4.30 p.m. Wednesday.
Cinema-
Arrangements have been made for the sailors of the “Dauntless” to
visit the Theatre “Principal” on either evening.
The film or talkie presented will be in the English language.
Currency-
The “Colon” or “peso” is the local currency and is equivalent to
50 cents U.S.A. currency, or about 2/- British currency.
Unites States currency is also accepted.
Arrangements will be made with the Anglo-South American Vank Ltd,
to change English currency to United States currency.
Lay
out of the City. For the
purpose of direction “Avenidas” or Avenues run north and south-“Calles,”
or streets east and west, odd numbers left hand side.
Prices-Motor
buses charge 10 cents silver (Salvadorian) per trip, from one end of the
city to the other that is from the Hospital “Rosales” to the
“Ferrocarril” or Railway Station.
Cigarettes
are 122 cents Salvadorian currency per packet.
All
prices in stores or shops are in Salvadorian currency-an article marked 50
cents would therefore be 25 cents United States currency.
Cars cost 6 colons per hour or the equivalent of £3.00.
Information-English
is spoken at the Anglo-south American Bank, Ltd, and in most stores and
offices.
Second
Party-Accommodation will be provided for 50 sailors aboard the motorbuses
returning with the first party on Thursday morning.
The second party should be landed by 8.00 a.m. in readiness to
leave immediately. Arrangements
will be same as for the first party, but there will not be a second
football match.
Dress-Dress
for both parties “Whites.”
Fifty
Of The ships Company Visit San Salvador
During
our stay at La Libertad an invitation to visit San Salvador, the capital
of the Republic, was extended to the ship’s company by the ,unicipal
authorities and the British colony. One hundred ratings, in two batches of fifty, did the trip,
spending a day and a night at the capital.
At
0800 on Wednesday 14th May, the first detachment of fifty left
the “Dauntless” to visit San Salvador.
Owing to a heavy swell we were hoisted out of the boat, one by one,
in a chair, operated by a crane on the jetty.
Two Englishmen met the party and allocated us to the four buses,
which were our conveyances to the capital, 25 miles away and 2,000 feet
above sea level. The journey,
if frightening at times, was very pleasant, as we passed through beautiful
surroundings; through flowery dells where butterflies flew, up mountain
sides with the fertile alluvian plain visible in the distance, and through
villages of mud huts with children, dogs, pigs and fowls playing and
foraging for food before the door. The
interiors of the huts could not have been very clean, as on some occasions
we noticed that they were meeting places for the family, animals and
poultry. We held our breaths
and clung to our seats as the buses negotiated the ruts and bends along
the narrow roads on top of cliffs, and down the steep mountainside to the
valley below. On the whole,
however, the roads were good.
The
journey lasted for approximately two hours when we arrived in great style
before our allotted hotel; full of the joy of spring and elated to be away
for 24 hours from our steel sided abode.
The rest of the morning was spent in sight seeing and demolishing
beer straight off the ice. Pretty flowers bloomed in all the gardens.
Vultures hovered above.
Suring
lunch, which consisted of soup, egg omelette and rice, salad, beefsteak
and pineapple and bananas and beer (excuse the details but I still yearn
for another such lunch under similar conditions); the ship’s brass band
played selections. After
lunch we drove to the football ground to see out match against the local
team, which was chiefly composed of British.
At half time the ships marched round the ground, followed by
scorers of local spectators and admist rousing cheers.
Our team lost by three goals to nil and a cup was presented to the
winners. After the game the
ship’s band marched back to the hotel.
Hundreds of natives followed the band, dancing and cheering. Traffic was blocked. On
occasion the band marked time while the crowd in front was cleared.
On arrival at the hotel extra police were summoned to keep the
crowd from rushing the hotel doors and entrances.
Dinner
was at 1900 and then some spent the evening walking round the town; others
went to the cinema to see and English talkie.
No entrance charge whatever was made.
All drinks and refreshments at the hotel were also free.
The Salvadorians were an orderly, quiet people; there seemed to be
no cabarets or nightlife, in fact the streets were practically empty by
2300.
During
their visit Sergeants Saunders and Gerrey were asked if they would care to
visit the barracks of the Garde Nationale.
On their arrival the guard presented arms.
The Brigade Major introduced them to all officers and hand shaking
ensued. A complete tour of
the barracks was made and every side of the routine witnessed.
The soldiers, group by group, thoroughly examined the Sergeants
uniforms and medals. At the
conclusion of the tour were more handshaking and a final salute from the
guard. Who said a
Sergeant’s uniform was not impressive?
At
0800 on Thursday morning we commenced our return journey, arriving onboard
at 0930. The second
detachment of fifty went up to San Salvador to take our place.
A cricket match was played, resulting in an easy win for the ship.
I
do not much think that our hosts at San Salvador realised how much we
enjoyed our stay at the capital and how much we appreciated their
kindness. Twenty-four hours
in such friendly, hospitable surroundings is a “god send” to any
sailor. We do not thank them
from the bottom of our hearts, nor will we forget Mr. Mrs and Miss Parkes,
visitors from Mexico, who did everything possible for us.
At
La Libertad many Salvadorians came onboard when the ship was open to
visitors. Captain Moore and
his officer gave an “At Home” on Friday, the 16th May, and
the ship sailed an hour later for Santa Monica, California.
We were only too pleased to be able to return some of the
hospitality we had received.
Saturday
17th May-Saturday 24th May.
On passage from La Libertad to Sant Monica; a whole week in which
to recover and train for further festivities.
Nothing of particular interest occurred.
The days and nights became distinctly cooler, a pleasant relief
from the sticky heat of the Canal and San Salvador.
On Thursday, the 22nd, we shifted into “Blues.”
California
was sighted the previous day, verily a land of sunshine.
Throughout the week we practiced evolutions.
A calm Sea, sunshine, the gambols of shoals of dolphins, and
watching an albatross keep pace with the ship with no apparent effort,
helped to pass a p[pleasant voyage.
H.M.S.
“Dauntless” arrived at Santa Monica on Saturday 24th May,
empire Day, and anchored about a mile off the landing jetty.
From the ship we could observe long stretches of sandy beach, the
playground of Hollywood stars and millionaires, sumptuous hotels and
houses, avenues winding through palm trees and a spacious amusement park.
What a welcome sight into eyes tire by expanses of sea! What welcome relief could be found from the confinement f a
ship! Ever since we sailed
from Portsmouth we had looked forward to our sojourn at Sant Monica,
which, apart from its own beauty and hospitality, afforded us an
opportunity to visit the world famous Hollywood, 15 miles inland.
In the
forenoon official shells were made and visitors and reception committees
received onboard. Speedboats
circled the ship. At first
they were objects of interest and curiosity, but later they became a
decided nuisance, as from dawn to sunset one could hear nothing but the
noise of outboard motors.
At
last we were free to go ashore. What
luck did we have? Read on,
but remember that our style is cramped by the fact that this publication
is somewhat official.
Extract
From The Los Angeles “Evening Express”
Of
Saturday 24th May 1930
“New
British Dreadnought Docks Today”
“H.M.S.
Dauntless With 700 In Crew, To Anchor
Off
Santa Monica”
“Mayor
Porter Will Extend Greetings”
“With
her huge muzzles covered with peacetime canvas caps and her crew of 700
men lined up smartly about the rail, the new British battleship, H.M.S.
“Dauntless”, newest of England’s super-dreadnoughts, ill drop anchor
in Santa Monica Harbour today for a visit of several days.
“And
while the great ships is approaching the harbour scores of former
residents of Great Britain, as well as many city and country officials,
were preparing to make the visit of the officers, and men one never to be
forgotten.
“Hundreds
of interested spectators will watch the big battleship drop her anchors,
after tugs, which will carefully guide her as near inshore as is safe,
cast off their hawsers.”
Hollywood-Visit
To Metro-Goldwyn-Meyer Studios
Hollywood-the
capital of Filmdom-is to the large majority of film fans a place of
enchantment and mystery. Although
its intimate secrets are always being probed into, very few facts leak out
to the average person.
Vivid
stories of scandal and hectic nightlife frequently appear in the daily and
weekly press; stories woven around some famous star or stars of the
screen. Wise folk can
differentiate between facts and publicity stunts, others get a thrill when
they ready anything, fictitious or not, concerning their favourite actor
or actress. A personal visit
to Hollywood, a visit entailing a studio tour and acquaintance with the
mummers, is the only method of forming a sane, unbiased opinion of
Hollywood.
Film
studios are closely guarded citadels into which admission is obtained only
by invitation. Imagine how
hastily and gladly I accepted an offer from one of the Metro-Goldwyn-Meyer
staff to look over their studios.
On
the appointed day I travelled from Santa Monica to Culver City by rail,
and then continued my journey on foot; it was only a short distance from
the station, but nevertheless exceedingly pleasant, for one has to pass
along magnificent wide boulevard, at the further end of which stand the
massive portals of the studio gates, surmounted by the firm’s famous
trade mark-a huge lion’s head. The
boulevard is no common thoroughfare, but more like the approach to some
stately palace; it is lined on each side with tall flowering trees, which
give it a very bright appearance. Small
modern bungalows of many original designs string out its full length. They are surrounded on three sides by gaily-coloured
flowerbeds and have refreshing velvet smooth lawns in front. Beauty seems the keynote here and even the houses are
carefully painted so that their colours fir perfectly into the picture.
The scene is more like a little piece of Fairyland, and it is hard
to realise it is actually the hub of such a flourishing industry.
The
smart, uniformed gatekeeper gave me a hard stare that seemed to say “No
admission,” but the mention of my friend’s name cleared the air and I
was admitted into the luxuriously furnished waiting room.
Shortly after I saw being conducted round what appeared to me one
vast maze.
We
first entered a huge building, approximately 100 yards long, 50 yards wide
and 15 yards high; composition walls, two feet thick, screening out
external sounds. An elaborate
warning system is installed at the doorway; a red light burning when
scenes are being taken and no one is allowed to enter until it is
extinguished. In one corner
of the building, in the glare of powerful lights, Leila Hyams and William
Haines were rehearsing in front of a small grocer’s shop, part of the
shopping centre of a small town.
Everything
seemed realistic, and it was only on approaching the scene that I found
nothing but wood was used. Articles
in the hop were so cleverly painted that I had to handle them before being
convinced the tins of beans and pots of jam were not real.
Other sets were scattered over the floor, and one that was
particularly interesting was a scene in Alaska.
Ordinary flaked rice takes the place of snow and is swirled round
by a large fan to give the impression of a snowstorm.
Shyness
overcame me on being introduced to such a world famous personality as
William Haines, but he immediately put me at ease with his free. Humorous
talk, and we had a short but very interesting conversation.
I took the opportunity to ask how he liked his work, and to my
great surprise he stated that he would be pleased when he saw through with
it all. He admitted the pay
was good, but his contracts held so many stipulations that these
counterbalanced his fat pay roll. When
a big film is in the making it is usual routine for him to work on it from
fourteen to sixteen hours a day, and normally he is at the studios for
eight hours a day. He cannot
always call the evenings his own, for he frequently has to be present at
parties, arranged by the film companies as publicity “stunts”-such
affairs, he assured me, are very boring and not so exciting for the stars
as the newspapers would have us believe.
Leila
Hyams seemed shy of a British sailor and, as she did not come forward to
be introduced, I had to be content with a look at her beauty and perfect
figure, so often portrayed on the screen.
Having thoroughly devoured the interesting points of this vast
stage we went out once again into the open air.
We next
attempted to enter a stage where Grace Moore was at work, but with no
success. We were told this
new star to the screen was exceptionally temperamental and could not
concentrate on her acting in the presence of visitors.
With
great reluctance we turned away, only to run into Lawrence Tibbett, who
had been recently recruited to Hollywood from the operatic stage and had
scored a big hit in his first talkie.
“The Rogue Song.” During a short conversation with him I discovered film work
was not to his particular liking wither, and it was only a colossal weekly
cheque that kept him at it. He
had to have special food to prevent any possible injury to his voice.
He had just breakfasted on one scone and a glass of grape fruit
juice.
Bidding
him farewell we wandered along to the next stage, where a company of
German stars were rehearsing in their own language.
My guide informed me that a large number of films were made in
German and Spanish and few in French.
The
intricate models in the miniature department came next.
Here such things as films of car and train smashes are made using
small but exact replicas. At
the time “Madame Satan” was being made and a model airship, six feet
long, was being used. It was suspended from wires and was manoeuvred from above.
The airship was supposed to be cruising in heavy weather and
burning sulpher made very realistic clouds and letting the volumes of
smoke produced float up around the model.
Some time later I actually saw the film, and it seemed so true to
life that a friend with me refused to believe it was not an actual airship
before us.
The
musical accompaniment to films is added after they have been otherwise
completed, and our next stopping place revealed the secret of how it is
done. We entered what
appeared to be a small cinema, except that a band took the place of an
audience. The film is thrown
on the screen and the conductor watches it as he leads the band.
A microphone, installed overhead, picks up the music, which is
eventually imprinted in the film opposite the picture concerned.
A
scene depicting a small lake in the Canadian backwoods was next viewed.
Tall pines, clusters of shrubs and rugged drcks, all of which were
artificial, surrounded the lake. I
was told that, without much trouble, this set could quickly be convicted
to represent canal in Naples, the River Seine or a part of the Hudson Bay.
This conversation idea is also applied in the Masin street scenes
for the atmosphere of a street, and buildings can quickly be changed to
represent Russia, China, England or France.
There
is so much to be seen in the studios that it is impossible to absorb al
the interesting features during a few hours visit. The little saw made me
realize the large amount of work that has to be done before a film can be
produced, and I came to the conclusion that film people were just or diary
hard working human beings.
Film
promoters realise the value of advertising their stars, and a story with
just a bit of spice or gossip is worth its weight in gold, weather it is
true or not. Nevertheless,
Los Angeles is well named. The surroundings and the film actresses are s beautiful and
exotic that no man can be blamed if he wanders from the straight and
narrow path. After a hard
day’s work at the studio I should think the majority of tars prefer
tranquillity and sleep to hectic parties.
British
Sailors Visit Film Studios
(Extract
from a Los Angeles paper)
“And
they get ‘pyde’ for this.”
“Said
-----, royal Marines, casting a gleeful eye at his shipmates: - ‘I think
I’ll chuck away me belt and cap and stay right here.’
That was just after Raquel Torres had kissed him right here.’
That was just after Raquel Torres had kissed him, and from the
fringe of the blue clad crowd raised an anguished voice. ‘Ow,’ it
said, ‘Ow and to think they get pyde for this.’”
Sailors
and Royal Marines from H.M.S. “Dauntless” went ashore yesterday as
guests of the Metro-Goldwyn-Meyer Studios.
The
saw motion pictures made; more than that they helped make them.
Edmund Goulding (Director) put Raquel Torress, Fay Webb, Blanche
Claire and Eddie Nugent through a scene for the benefit of the visitors. Then he asked Jack Fowler to pick out four or five British
sailors to work in an impromptu scene.
Four or five! The whole bunch enthusiastically volunteered.
Goulding had to make it a mob scene in self-defence.
Raquel Torres, Blanche and Fay disappeared in a whirling maelstrom
of blue. Out of the melee
rose Raquel’s plaintive voice-“Oh he say what I do not understand.”
The accent of Old England was too much for Raquel’s Mexican ears.
Luncheon
was served and the afternoon devoted to amusements and seeing the
sights.”
Hollywood
(A Visit To The R.K.O. Studio)
I
had an uncle once, but he came to an untimely end through being run over
by a horse tram in the streets of London. His
remains were taken to a hospital in an ambulance-a vehicle with a loud
bell which, when set in motion, cleared the street.
He and I are the only two members of my family who have been
conveyed through the streets of a city with such clamorous pomp.
On
the morning of the 28th May 1930, Captain Moore and eleven
officers were driven from Santa Monica to the R.K.O. Studio in Hollywood
in three cars. One “speed
cop” rode a motorcycle ahead and one abeam of the processions.
Our speed was 40 m.p.h.-not fast but it never varied.
The “speed cops” blew their sirens and the traffic pulled into
the side of the road to give us a clear run.
“Stop”-“Go” signs meant nothing to us.
I think we all felt rather like Royalty.
On arrival at the R.K.O. Studio we were promptly led to a large
place like a gymnasium, which, in fact, it was.
It was full of beautiful young damsels in very brief clothing.
These were the Pearl Keaton girls.
They danced for our edification and also assumed incredible poses
to indicate the supple nature of their anatomies.
During this performance our impression of being Royal persons was
increased to an impression that we were Eastern Potentates.
I found myself staring rather rudely so unglued my eyes and
observed my colleagues. I
have never seen so many eyes so closely resembling the proverbial hatpeg.
The
next item on the programme was lunch, which was taken in the studio dining
room-a very interesting place. Parties
of sweet young things, straight from their “sets” swept, inform time
to time and had a hurried meal, either sitting at a long counter or at
small tables. We found
ourselves among a distinguished gathering, which included Bebe Daniels,
Betty Compson, George Grossmith (Teeth and all) and famous composers and
“prodoocers.” The lucky
ones sat next to the “stars,” I was neighbour to a million dollar
producer, while my other messmates sat back; some coyly, some obviously
intrigued and basked in the atmosphere of screen fame.
One of the actresses had on her “war paint,” a yellow face and
dark red lips. She was due on
the set immediately after lunch. Conversations
were not lacking. But for a
party the night before I would have done more justice to the meal. He would be an abnormal man who would, when surrounded by the
beauty and wealth of Hollywood and when due for a relapse from the night
before, concentrate on food for the body.
The luncheon was excellent, as this menu will witness: -
Luncheon
In
Honour Of The Officers Of
H.M.S.
“Dauntless,”
28th
May 1930
--------------------------------------
Crab
flake Cocktail Neptune
Heart
of Celery
Ripe
Olives
Poulet
Grillee Au Lard
Cresson
Heart
of Lettuce
(Thousand
Island Dressing)
Cantaloupe
Lillian Russell
Demitasse
After
lunch the party proceeded to see Bebe Daniels act in her set.
Actually one set was rehearsed and then, at the producer’s
request, Captain Moore and two Midshipmen were photographed with Miss
Daniels. The Midshipmen still
treasure copies of the photographs as evidence of their acquaintance with
Hollywood and a famous film actress.
Fortunately blushes are not portrayed.
We
next saw Richard Dix and company rehearse a scene three times then a bell
was rung for silence, indicating that the time had arrived for making the
talkie’ the whole scene was filmed, but not apparently to the
producer’s approval, as he had a few words to say to one of the actors.
Once again the procedure was carried out and once more the producer
was dissatisfied with the same actor.
Words and opinions of abilities were mutually vocabulary of the
people concerned. A most embarrassing situation arose when one of our parties
developed hiccups while the scene was being shot. Luckily he managed to hic softly into a handkerchief.
Some time before our visit the film “Dixiana” had been
produced, but the Negro chorus who sang the theme song was still at the
R.K.O. studios, under contract for another picture.
For our entertainment the chorus sang “dixiana” and “Mr and
Mrs. Sippi,” the conductor being the composer of the two songs, a well
known artist who had also written the music for Rio Rita.
Once could visualize slaves working in a cotton field and the
beauty of the Rose of Sixie, Dixiana.
Those Negroes certainly could sing and then some.
While
still humming the tune of Dixiana we entered another gymnasium, where
about twenty sylph-like figures, in scanty clothing, were being drilled in
certain dance steps. These
were the Tiller Girls. Their
high kicks and rhythm sent us unto a standing swoon.
All the members of the troupe were English girls.
Some of them made tender enquiries of London and England in
general. Alas! We had been
away from home almost as long as they had.
At
1630 the visit ended. Some returned onboard, others kept dates, and cad’s party
of four toured the town to sample the various types of “porcelain
solvent.” It is our
considered opinion that when the Hollywood in habitants have had a few
more years brewing experience the death rate will decrease.
We
were indebted to Major Fairbanks-Smith and the Directors for our
exceedingly instructive and interesting visit to the R.K.O. Studio.
Words cannot express our appreciation of their kindness.
If
Genius is a capacity for taking pains the Genius reigns at the R.K.O.
Studio.
A
Concert By The Sons Of St. George And A Visit To
The
Al Roach Studios
While
H.M.S. “Dauntless” was at Santa Monica the Sons of St. George and the
Caledonian Society entertained the ship’s company to a concert at which
several famous actors-Al roach, Clive Brook, Reginald Denny, Harry
Richmond, Stan Laurel and Oliver Hardy were present. After the concert Laurel and Hardy extended a general
invitation to the ship to visit the Al Roach Studios, an invitation that
was gladly accepted by many.
At
the studios the visitors saw their hosts acting in a scene from a murder
mystery. The picture was
recorded in English, German, French, and American.
Why American? Because jokes which “take” in the United States do not go
down in England and vice versa. The
foreign words were phonetically spelt on a blackboard, and language
experts corrected any mispronunciation during rehearsals.
Naturally there was much hard work to be done before the scenes
were “shot”.
In
storm scene rows of pipes pierced at intervals provided the rain, while an
aeroplane propeller was utilised to produce the wind.
Thunder was obtained by shaking sheets of corrugated iron.
Laurel
and Hardy personally explained a few technicalities to their guests and
kindly distributed autographed photos of them.
Laurel, incidentally, is an Englishman.
Douglas
Airplane Works
The
Manager of the Douglas Airplane Works, a British, personally conducted a
tour of the airplane works. Every stage of the construction of a plane was witnessed.
On the flying ground at the factory is situated the last air beacon
of the chain, which runs from New York westwards.
The
efficiency of the organisation at the works and the cleansing and gear
stowage facilities afforded to the employees were particularly impressive.
A large number of workers were British and they were eager to learn
the conditions at home and of the progress of their favourite football
teams.
A
closely contested football match against the Douglas Works resulted in a
win for the ship.
Dance
At Santa Monica
On
Thursday 28th May, the officers gave a dance organised by
Captain Bagot, R.M. and Lieutenant Whetstone, onboard.
The youth and beauty of Hollywood were well represented.
Rumour has it that the food provided was good.
The
dance band was excellent, but not much dancing was done, as the
hospitality in the Ward Room seemed more popular.
The financial aspect of the dance provided much food for thought
the next day.
We
congratulate Captain Bagot and Lieutenant Whestone for their marvellous
organisation. The ship had
been in commission but two months, so naturally the officers were not very
well acquainted with the abilities and susceptibilities of their
messmates. We learnt a great
deal. The organisation for
future dances has already been arranged.
Bagot his volunteered to persuade somebody to take him out in a
car, flower gathering, and Whestone has promised to build a rock garden on
No. 5 Gun Deck if somebody else would catch the fish to put in it.
Our
sympathies are extended to the officers who were debited with three
bottles of champagne and a thousand cigarettes.
Incidentally a word of advice-Never allows a female journalistic
gatecrasher to inflict her presence at a dance.
Her gross prevarications may call for diverse explanations.
Santa
Monica, California
While
at Santa Monica many of the ship’s company had the good fortune to be
driven around in cars by their hosts.
The road to Hollywood is magnificent, conducive to speed.
Past Hollywood, inland one can climb to 2,000 feet and observe the
film town nestling in its valley, a peaceful panorama compared with the
hustle and bustle that takes place within the town itself.
The traffic control through the main thoroughfares is affected by a
system of lights, red and green. No
policemen are to be seen across roads. Instead there is an organisation of “speed cops” who
patrol the roads on motorcycles to deal with furious and dangerous
drivers. Despite the enormous
traffic (almost every family owns a car) the only noise is heard is that
of wheels skimming over roads, as hooters are seldom blown. This fact is most impressive when one recalls the nuisance of
incessant hooting and tooting of horns in most cities.
The
valley of San Fernando is the agricultural district.
On either side of the roads, in the outskirts of the large towns,
are orchards of peaches, apricots, oranges and lemons.
The largest walnut grove in the world, about eight miles by three,
is situated near San Fernando. On
occasions, it is said, the market price does not warrant the expense of
picking the fruit and transport, and so the fruit falls to the ground and
what the pigs do not continue is left to rot.
Every
family outside the city boasts a wooden bungalow.
The designs are varied and original, the combined aspect providing
a pleasant spectacle of peace and comfort.
The
return journey via Beverley Hills is a distinct contrast to the bungalows
of San Fernando. The
sumptuous houses, one may even say palaces, of the film stars are located
in this district. No money
has been spared to remind the visitor that he is gazing upon the abode of
those on whom the God of Screen Fortune has smiled.
Swimming baths, tennis courts, statuettes, hot houses and
flowerbeds are spread over the grounds.
All the necessary and unnecessary comforts that wealth can bring
are there.
The
oil fields are landmarks and an additional source of wealth to the
inhabitants of California, a country that has been favoured by fortune
with natural resources and a glorious climate.
The artificial film world really pales before the beauty of the
country and the flowers.
Alas!
All good things come to an end. On
Thursday, 29th May, H.M.S. “Dauntless” sailed from Santa
Monica for Esquimalt. We treasure memories of California hospitality and beauty.
There was much heartache as the city faded from view.
Sant
Monica-Esquimalt
Thursday
29th May-arrived at San Pedro, approximately 30 miles from
Santa Monica, oiled, and proceeded for Esquimalt about 1530.
Salutes were exchanged with U.S.S. “Idaho” in harbour.
30th
May-1st June. On
passage. Ordinary ship’s
routine. On Sunday we
experienced strong winds and the temperature fell sufficiently to
necessitate the wearing of overcoats.
Outside
Esquimalt harbour, on the morning of June 2nd, H.M.S.
“Dauntless” met H.M.C.S. “Vancouver” and “Armentieres,” who
carried out a torpedo attack on us. At
1115 the ship secured alongside the jetty, for many of the officers and
ship’s company this was the first visit to the Dominion of Canada, and
since leaving Bermuda, this was the first occasion on which we were
entirely amongst our own folk.
Sad
news came to us on Tuesday 3rd June.
According to the press news one of the large launches at Santa
Monica, used for transporting rod-fishing enthusiasts to hulks, which lay
a mile off the coast, capsized. The
cause of the disaster was evidently overloading and a heavy Pacific swell.
Of the 54 passengers only a few were saved. During our sojourn at Santa Monica the same launch had been
put at our disposal for transport ashore.
The
tradegy, which had befallen the town, we had just left been indeed sad.
The following message of sympathy was wireless to the British
Consul at Los Angeles: -
“Please
convey to Major Michel of Santa Monica the sincere sympathy of all onboard
‘Dauntless’ for the disaster to the motor launch in the bay.”
Esquimalt
dockyard is pleasantly situated. Pines
and fire are clustered around the vicinity.
Members of the famous Canadian North West Mounted Police were on
duty on the jetty. The dockyard buildings boasted a stretch of green lawn and
flowerbeds. The air was
distinctly healthy and-well we were with our own people.
The
month of June brought much rejoicing.
Just prior to leaving England the ship’s company received six
weeks pay in advance, so that the 1st June was the next
occasion on which the much needed “pelf” would be distributed.
Thank heavens our impecunious period had been spent in a dry
country. We were now in a
happy position-Canada, a pocket full of money, and opportunities to
receive and return hospitality.
Esquimalt
Hotel
Massa
Tom, we won’t come back,
Our
station’s changed- we’ve got the sack.
But
still we’ll drink you many a health,
And
happy days-they is more than wealth.
This
book would be incomplete without recalling memories of the Esquimalt
Hotel, owned by that jovial proprietor.
Tom Brunsdon. Tom had a winning personality, a fund of good humour and a
kind word for everybody. One
soon felt at home in the parlour of the Esquimalt Hotel.
Do
you remember? Ah well,
we’re off now. Tom issued
free passes, which were on all railroads provided that the bearer walked,
carried his own luggage, swam all rivers and stopped for all drinks at his
hotel.
Notices
indicated that a man was engaged in the yard to do all the cursing and
blinding that was required in the establishment.
A dog was kept to do all the barking.
The professional “chucker out” had won 90 prizes and was an
excellent shot with a revolver. An
undertaker called every morning for orders.
These
were Tom’s commandments: -
1.
When thirsty thou shalt come to my house and drink, but not to
excess; that thou mayest live long in the land and enjoy thyself for ever.
2.
Thou shalt not take anything from more and me that are of value,
for I need all I have.
3.
Thou shalt not expect too large glasses, nor filled too full, for
we must pay our rent.
4.
Thou shalt not sing nor dance except when thy spirit moveth thee to
do thy best.
5.
Thou shalt honour me and mine that thou mayest live long and see me
again.
6.
Thou shalt not destroy or break anything on the premises, else thou
shalt pay double the value; thou shalt not try to pay me in bad money, nor
even say “Chalk” or “Slate.”
7.
Thou shalt call at my place daily; if unable to come I shall feel
it an insult, unless thou send a substitute or an apology
8.
Thou shalt not abuse thy fellow drinkers, nor cast base
insinuations upon their character by hinting that they can’t drink too
much
9.
Thou shalt not take the name of my gods in vain by calling my beer
“hope” for I always keep Silver Spring Ales, and I am always at home
to my friends.
10.
Thou shalt not so far forget thine honourable position and high
standing in the community as to ask the lanlord to treat.
Many of us still yearn for another convivial
evening at the Esquimalt Hotel, but-our station has bee changed.
Esquimalt
And Victoria
2nd-9th
June: -At Esquimalt, which is purely a Naval Base for Western Canada. The Naval Barracks are situated near the dockyard.
During the week most of the diversions were found at Victoria, the
Capital of British Columbia, about twenty minutes by tram from Esquimalt.
Rudyard Kipling eulogises the city in these
words: -
“To
realise Victoria you must take all that the eye admires most in
Bournemouth, Torquay, the Isle of Wight, the Happy Valley at Hong Kong,
the Doon, Sorrento and Camp’s Bay; add reminiscences of the Thousand
Islands, and arrange the whole around the Bay of Naples, with some
Himalayas for the background.”
From
personal experience we have something further to add-“To realise the
British Columbian girl you must take all the eye admires most in the
damsels of Brighton, Nottingham, Edinburgh, London and the Lake District;
add the independence of the American girl and the natural “joie de
vivre2 of a frolicking lamb; add a spice of the exotic, the demureness of
a bride, and arrange the whole in an atmosphere of the Rockies and the
Sook River.” At this point
we were discouraged by the Editorial Office Boy Muttering-“Oh Yeah!!!”
During
the round the world voyage in 1924 H.M.S. “Hood” and H.M.S.
“Repulse” were able to berth at the same time at Victoria.
The
Parliament Buildings, the Connaught Library, the Natural History Museum,
the Mineral Exhibits, Archives and Old Drill Hall are well worth a visit.
The all glass Crystal Garden, housing a 150 foot sea water swimming
tank, peacock promenades, concert auditoriums, gymnasiums, palm gardens
and Badminton courts, is unique. The
telescope in the Observatory is the second largest in the world. Gardens and flowers of all hues are plenteous.
Mr. Butchart’s Sunken Gardens at Brentwood feature 16 acres of
fairyland, besides the sunken area with its blossom-covered walls, 100
feet high. Through the
courtesy of Mr. And Mrs. Butchart they are open every day.
Victoria
is a slice of England with more favourable climate conditions.
Practically every form of sport is available at reasonable prices. In fact any retired Service man who seeks a haven of
inexpensive living, rest and sport, even to catching gold fish in the
fountain of a leading hotel, need look no further than Victoria.
On
Friday 6th June, H.M.S. “Dauntless” gave a concert at the
Chamber of Commerce, the proceeds of which were devoted to charity.
The ship was open to visitors on the two following days, and many
inhabitants availed themselves of the opportunity of seeing a British
cruiser.
While
at Esquimalt a football match was played against a selected Victoria and
District team, the result being a draw, although we finished with only
nine men on the field. The
performance was very creditable, as our opponents were in training to meet
a Glasgow Rangers team. After
the match the Mayor and councillors of Victoria and our opponents
entertained the team, the toast of the evening being “The girls we left
behind us.”
Soon
after our arrival the ship was invited to participate in the Royal
Canadian Naval Sports. Imagine our training condition after a Soujourn in California
and no facilities for violent exercise, particularly in the running line.
Nevertheless we put up a good performance.
The Royal Marines and boys teams won their tug-of-war competitions.
The ship was second in the open relay race, due to the splendid
effort of A.B. Clark, who passed two opponents in the last lap of his
half-mile. Incidentally,
Clark also took second place in the open mile.
P.O. Rayment was third in the 100 yards, Boy Writer Turner third in
the Young Seamen’s 220 yards, Stoker Blake second in the high Jump and
C.P.O. Kemp-Knight first in the 100 yards veterans.
One of our officers might have got a place in the officer’s
handicap race, if he hadn’t mistaken the refreshment tent for the
finishing tape.
We
sailed for Comox, Vancouver Island, at 0600 on Monday 9th June.
Both officers and men have spent a most enjoyable week.
We were sore at parting from so many friends; sorry to depart from
the jots of picnics, motor drives, dances and parties, but we had the
satisfaction of knowing that we would return in July.
Comox
Camp
After
H.M.C.S. “Vancouver” had carried out a torpedo attack on the ship
H.M.S. “Dauntless” proceeded to Comox, arriving about 1715.
Fir and pine forests and lumber camps were visible in the distance
during the passage. Comox
itself is a very small village but the presence of a rifle range, the
salubrious climate and the facilities for camp life, render it an ideal
place at which to carry out annual rifle practices; at the same time
giving the ship’s company a spell under canvas, a welcome change from
the monotony of ship routine.
The
following day 10th June, the first party proceeded to camp.
The routine was as follows: -
0600
Call the hands
0630
Breakfast
0730
Fall in by division
0740
Proceed to rifle range for practices
1230
Return to camp to dinner
P.M.
Make and mend.
The
evenings were devoted to sport. And
interplatoon football competition was held.
Headquarters were the winners of the first party, and No. 2
platoon, the “Pookites,” defeated No. 1 platoon, the “Caddickites,”
to become victors of the second party. Most of the games were of a humorous nature, as the ground
was overgrown with brambles and long grass, and when it was difficult to
locate the ball the man was taken.
When
the camp was being pitched a baseball bat was found, and from this
discovery the idea was conceived of introducing baseball, locally
modified, into our sports. One
platoon, styled the “Chicago Whitesox,” swept the board, but when the
Ward Room heard of their undefeated record, Lieutenant Whetstone raised a
team of officers, the “Gin Flips,” and literally ran the Whitesox off
their feet.
Occasionally
games of cricket were played. Towards
dusk gramophones blared from almost every tent.
Many of the ship’s company amused themselves beach exploring and
raft riding, a la Huckleberry Finn. After
dark bonfires were lit all around the cam and singsongs were the order of
the day until it was time to turn in.
No wonder the Campsite looked healthy and happy.
The
following incident revealed the secret of the schoolgirl complexions
suddenly developed amongst the officer ashore.
Scene-The
Officers Mess Tent At Comox
A.
Have a drink, old man
B.
Thanks, but really it’s my turn.
You stood me one this morning
A. Rot. what does that matter? Same
as usual?
B.
Sure, but I insist on standing you this one.
A.
Have it your own way. I’m
damn thirsty.
B.
Have a double then?
A.
Good idea, but if I do I am going to pay my whack.
B.
Don’t be wet. We’ll
make it two doubles.
A. Please let me do some of it.
B.
Certainly not-Steward
A.O.K. then, I’ll do the next one.
B.Sterward-two
large
A.
You really want a large one do you?
B.
Of course I do. Steward-two
large glasses of Milk please.
On
occasions the officers onboard had the pleasure of visits from their shore
messmates. There was no doubt
as to the object of the visit.
The
second party relieved the first prty in camp on Wednesday 18th
June. The routine was much
the same. Captain Moore
inspected the Camp on Sunday 22nd June, after which Divine
Service was held. On the 26th
June the second detail returned to the ship after a most enjoyable week
under canvas.
The
range practice results were very encouraging.
The men looked fir and happy, and the common wish was “Roll on
next year and another Comox Camp.”
Reprisal
Raid On Ship
The
idea of carrying out a reprisal raid on the ship was conceived at about
2100, and details were soon arranged.
The four individuals concerned gave instructions to the Corporal of
the Guard, Middle Watch, to call them at 0130.
The
raiding party manned the skiff and paddled noiselessly past the logs in
the vicinity, heading for a point near Courtenay Lumber Dump.
As rowlocks were not being used, and as care had to be exercised
not to make and break lumber camp and shore lights with the skiff and our
bodies, this took a considerable time.
After reaching appoint about four cables directly ahead of the ship
the skiff was turned round and allowed to drift onto the ship’s ram.
On
arriving here two raiders swarmed up the cable, pausing a minute at the
hawse pipe for observation purposes.
Conditions were favourable, so Raider No. 1 advanced along the port
side of the fo’cs’le and into the recreation space.
Here he found the hatch to the sick bay flat closed, so he returned
and went down the port ladder. Hearing
footsteps he hid himself in the Parting Room and, through a keyhole,
observed the Quartermaster and Corporal of the Gangway going the rounds.
When all was clear this raider emerged and proceeded down a
hatchway, past the Canteen and through the port passage to the Switchboard
Room, where he commenced breaking the switches, with the object of
plunging the whole ship in darkness.
However after he had dealt with several switches, a Stoker rating,
who demanded a reason for the lights being extinguished, disturbed him.
The raider replied that he was searching for an earth, but the
Stoker was dissatisfied with the explanation and said he would report the
matter to the duty Engineer Officer as it was causing great inconvenience.
Raider No 1 had time to decrease the voltage and seize the
switchboard log. Meanwhile,
the switchboard watch keeper awoke and proceeded to the Switchboard Room
to investigate the light extinguishing.
This gave the wrecker the opportunity to clear out of the space and
grope his way forward, past hammocks and sleeping forms in the bath flat.
On arrival at the P.O.’s flat he heard movements and, while
standing stock still, heard the Quartermaster challenge, “Are you the
L.T.O.?” To this raider No.
2, who also happened to be there at the time, replied, “Yes, I am trying
to discover the reason for lights failing.”
When
the Quartermaster had departed, No. 1 proceeded via the starboard ladder
to rendezvous with his companion in the fo’cs’le.
Now
for No. 2 movements. He at once ran aft, intending to capture the tongue of the
bell, but to his disappointment, this had been removed. There was nothing worth taking on the quarterdeck, so he
visited the captain’s lobby flat. Here
the ship’s trophies were exhibited in a case, but for fear of causing
damage, he left them alone. He
then wended his way to the P.O.’s flat, where the challenging incident
occurred.
Soon
after he rendezvoused with his companion at No. 1 Gun.
During
the foregoing operations Raiders No. 3 and 4, in the skiff, glided down
the starb’d side of the ship and secured on the outside of the motor
boat lying at the boom.
No
.3 jumped into the motorboat and endeavoured to remove the steering wheel,
but found this impossible. Meanwhile No. 5 annesex the Pyrene and Klaxon horn.
At this point the Quartermaster appeared in the Starboard Battery,
hauled the skiff and ordered her to come alongside.
He also shouted to the Brigade to switch on the searchlights, but
the signalman reported that the fuses had gone.
The skiff raiders hurriedly cast off.
The searchlights were now working.
They
had great difficulty I keeping out of its rays, but managed to arrive at
the rendezvous to pick up nos. 1
and 2, who had meanwhile clambered down the cable and were, hanging on for
dear life. Several ratings
had heard the commotion and had mustered on the fo’cs’le.
Once was heard to remark, “Ere, there are two men on the
cable.” The motorboat was
called away but the raiders managed to get clear in time, taking care to
avoid recognition by keeping their heads down.
Rowlocks
were used on the return journey. The
whole raid, up to the time the skiff was hauled up the beach, occupied
about two and quarter hours.
The
First “Dauntless” Dance Band
Quite a great deal can be said of the talent in the ship as
regards sports, social activities, etc, but a few remarks must be made
about the first “Dauntless” Dance Band, since defunct.
On commissioning it was discovered that four of the cook’s staff
of six were instrumentalists, namely; Piano, saxophone, banjo, and in
their spare moments they would get together and play a few tunes.
Upon settling down to the routine of the ship, several impromptu
concerts were held on the upper deck, at which they appeared under the
heading of “The Culinary Four.” Ina
short space of time progress was made whereby a dance band formed, with
the addition of a concert, euphonium and drums.
At the same time the band became members of a famous dance
orchestra journal and received monthly the latest dance numbers.
Impromptu dances were held on the upper deck, one a week, at which
they played. It was at Comox
, Vancouver Island. That they
had their first tryout, but it was not a great success, due to the fact
that the local band, who also played at intervals, was an entirely
different tempo, but it certainly was an experience.
Undaunted by this, however they went further ahead and played for
dances at Wrangel and went further ahead and played for dances at Wrangel
and Sitka in Alaska.
By
the time the experience obtained gave them greater confidence.
They next played at the Elk Hall in Astoria.
Oregon, and during the evening were approached by the local
wireless authorities, to broadcast a programme from the studio at the
Astor Hotel. The necessary
permission having been obtained, this was duly carried out, and from all
accounts it was an unqualified success; at the same time being a wonderful
experience of the members of the band.
They were honoured to ply in conjunction with the dance band of the
“Despatch” at the dance given onboard by the Commander-in-Chief at San
Francisco. The next and last
time they played was at Santa Barbara, California where they attended two
dances. On our return to
Bermuda circumstances arose which rendered. It impracticable to carry on, and so after many enjoyable
musical nights together, the original “Dauntless” Dance Band ceased to
function and passed into the “Might have beens.”
Visit
To Logging Camp Near Comox, Vancouver Island
On
the 19th June, about 1110, a party of 100 ratings landed at Elk
Pier and were conveyed in private cars top a Logging Camp, about 15 miles
away, in the heart of the Comox Valley.
Once
we got clear of the main rods the countryside was a sorry sight, due to
the fact that it was just a waste of charred trees and stumps, a mute
reminder of the devastation caused by a forest fire some eight years ago.
There are now strict orders re smoking and lighting fires.
On
arrival at the Camp we were regaled with a sumptuous lunch, cooked and
served by Chinese, for whom we afterwards had a “whip round.”
For once all hands were unanimous in their praise of the
“eats.” After lunch the
party boarded a truck train, which puffed and jolted through the timber
until we arrived at the same scene of operations.
Our
first stop was at a place where tree trunks were being loaded into a wagon
train. This is done as
follows; a suitable tall tree, alongside the rail track, is used as a
“Spar Tree” or derrick, and from this tree wires run into the forest
in all directions. Whips,
with grabs, run along the length of the wires and, with power supplied by
a steam engine, the felled trees are dragged from their resting places,
hundreds of yards away. The
timber comes crashing through the undergrowth, over other logs, through
pools of water, all of which are pushed aside or successfully negotiated,
and is finally dumped alongside the rail track.
An arm from the “Spar Tree,” fitted with grabs, then lifts the
logs into the wagons with a minimum waste of time.
From
here we proceeded another mile and then halted at an embryo “Sparr
Tree.” Before a tree can
used for a derrick, the top twenty feet, of small diameter, has to be
lopped or “topped,” otherwise, when the whips the top part would sway,
probably sufficiently to cause a fracture in the tree are dragging in
logs. Even if the break does
not occur below the rigging, the falling top might cause fatal injuries
among the workmen.
Awaiting
us was a lumberman, called a “High Rigger,” who buckled on a pair of
spikes to his boots. With an
axe dangling from his waist, a rope encircling his body and the tree
trunk, he commenced to climb, lopping off branches as he proceeded aloft.
After ascending about 150 feet he dug in his climbing irons firmly
and commenced to chop off the remaining 20 feet of the tree, which soon
fell with a crash, exactly where he had predicted.
As the top fell the tree swayed as though struck by a full gale but
before it had steadied the “High Rigger” had commenced to descend in
leaps of several feet. As the
girth of the tree increased, so he increased the diameter of the
encircling rope.
“High
Riggers” have been known to sit on top of the swaying tree after the
topping operation had been completed; in fact we were told that a Russian
once stood on his head there for a wager.
The total time taken from when the man left the ground to his
return was only 17 ½ minutes, a wonderful performance.
Although perspiring freely, he was quite unperturbed.
His job is highly paid, and we came to the conclusion the money was
well earned.
We then
witnesses three trees being felled. They
were already axed at the bottom to determine where they should fall.
It took two men ten minutes of sawing before each tree fell with a
thunderous crash, carrying away branches of the surrounding trees en
route.
After
inspecting the camp and a few odd bits of machinery, we thanked our hosts
heartily for their hospitality and for a most interesting and instructive
visit. The same cars whisked
us back to Comox. We returned
onboard tired, but well pleased with a most enjoyable outing.
Elk
River Timber Company
By
kind permission of the Manager of the Elk River Timber Company, Mr. Cobb,
twelve officers spent twenty-four hours at the Elk River Timber Coy Camp.
Captain, Mrs and Miss Moore, who were guests of Mr. And Mrs. Cobb,
were with the expedition. In
addition to witnessing the lumber operations already described, the
following items of interest were gathered.
The
lumbermen were a most cosmopolitan crowd; the majority were Swedes or
Norwegians, but there were many Canadians, British and Russians, and a few
Czech Slovakians, Americans and Germans.
In the camp they were a peaceful, hard working collection, their
interests in life, after a day’s work, extending to food and sleep only.
A few indulged in a game with metal quoits.
Apparently the majority lead this type of life until they have
saved enough money for a colossal “jag” in the nearest town.
Lumbermen
consume incredible quantities of food.
No talking is allowed in the dining room, presumably because
conversation interferes with the amount of food eaten and the digestion.
No
liquor of any description is allowed in the Camp.
Doubtless this is the reason for such few accidents.
Also a man has to be in perfect condition to perform his arduous
task.
The
beds provided in the huts are none too comfortable.
The huts themselves are draughty and the length of the blanket
supplied is such that the average man has to choose between having his
neck or his feet frozen.
One
Englishman in the Camp was receiving £600 a year from his people for his
people to keep away from home. He
seemed perfectly happy. While spending his allowance he did no work, and
when his money had gone he returned to employment in the Lumber Camp.
The
work in a Camp is strenuous but the life is healthy.
The lumberman is a splendid specimen of manhood physically.
He possesses the asset of not being loquacious.
The unanimous decision was that we would not care to change jobs
with a lumberman.
Comox
The
Elk hotel, the hospitality of “Dusty” D’Esterre and his picture and
portrait gallery in his studio, most of which were Naval links, will
always bring interesting and pleasant recollections to the officers of
H.M.S. “Dauntless.”
Whilst
at Comox, five officers took the opportunity to visit Campbell River (a
paradise for salmon fishers), twenty miles away.
Dr, and Mrs. Richardson kindly put a tent at their disposal.
As luck would have it we were too early for the Tyee salmon, which
run to 100 lbs; but good sport was had with the spring salmon, one kill
weighing 10 lbs. The trout would not rise to a fly.
While
trolling, Mate Maybury hooked a fish which, when it broke surface, looked
like a 20 lb salmon. The fish
jumped, Maybury jumped; the fish dived; Maybury looked bewildered.
The fish jumped again; Maybury lost his balance, the rod nearly
left his hand and alas!! The salmon shook out the hook.
For one week we heard all about the fish, which was nearly as big
as him. Bad luck, little man!
Anytime you have half an hour to spare, you known to whom to go for
instructions.
When
fish are being cleaned by the riverside, enormous dogfish swarm around to
collect the refuse. One was
gaffed and the interesting fact discovered that the species do not lay
eggs.
About
1330 on Friday 27th June, H.M.S. “Dauntless” and H.M.C.S.
“Vancouver” secured alongside the C.P.R. Jetty at Vancouver, both
ships having been detailed to convey units of the Canadian Militia to
Maple Bay to take part in the combined Operations Scheme.
Early
the following morning we heard the skirl of bagpipes and soon after
appeared the first regiment bound for the battle; the Seaforth
Highlanders, with kilts swaying to the music of the Canadian Scottish
pipers. They were closely
followed by the Irish Inniskillings and then came fifes and drums leading
detachments from the Vancouver Regiment, the Artillery, the Sappers and
the West Vancouver’s. The
entire force was under the command of Brigadier General Sutherland Browne.
An enormous crowd witnessed the embarkation, the organisation of
which went smoothly thanks to guides who ran hither and thither, and to
direction signs on blackboards. By
0830 the ship had embarked approximately 400 officers and men and soon
after, accompanied by the “Vancouver,” she sailed, amidst cheers from
the crowd and lively tunes from our band.
Fortunately
the sea was calm. Aircraft detailed to atten
